Sep 20, 2017, 02:01 PM
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herreraa | |
herreraa Slow Flight Thread OP | Discussion I am new in RC and want to convert a small rubber plane to a RC. I read in the forum that i could use a MLP4DSM transmitter ( already purchased and used one because i do not have a radio....yet) and a receiver. I do not have a motor yet , but the receiver i am planning to use is a dsm compatible from banggood, that i found in one the forums: I want to understand : I hope somebody can provide some guidance and please excuse if this is not the correct location for the questions. Thanks |
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Sep 20, 2017, 02:29 PM
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hard line | |
hard line pull up -- PULL UP!!! | The esc supplies operating power for the receiver and any servos. In a separate circuit it also powers and controls the motor. Brushed and brushless motors both require escs, but an esc is specific to brushed or brushless. IE, you have to buy the right type. There can be a few factors in choosing the correct esc, but the biggest factor is getting a current rating somewhat larger than the motor will draw. For example if the motor draws 13A, you may want a 20A esc. Hopefully when you look for motors to buy, the current draw will be listed. Brushed motors have two leads, and reversing the leads reverses the motor. Brushless motors have three leads and swapping any two reverses the motor. For further reading check the stickies at the top of this forum for choosing a power system. |
Sep 20, 2017, 03:14 PM
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abenn | |
abenn Registered User | A battery provides the power An ESC (Electronic Speed Control) takes a signal from the receiver and uses it to regulate the motor speed -- i.e. it's part of the interface between the throttle stick on your transmitter, and the motor. As hard line has said, you need to get the correct type of ESC for your motor; either brushless (most common these days) or brushed (cheaper but less efficient). Most ESCs also contain a BEC (Battery Eliminator Circuit) which provides a steady 5 volts (or maybe selectable 5v/6v) for your receiver and servos. This avoids you having to use a separate 5v battery (usually a 4-cell NiMh pack) for your receiver, because your motor battery voltage would otherwise be too high for it. |
Sep 20, 2017, 03:18 PM
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failboat | |
failboat yank and bank!! | Save your plane for much later..... it's a long hard study to outfit a rubber powered model with good equipment and even successful conversions ARE NOT for beginners. |
Sep 20, 2017, 03:34 PM
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balsa or carbon | |
balsa or carbon IMO ( In My Opinion ) → | Quote: Originally Posted by herreraa I am new in RC and want to convert a small rubber plane to a RC. I read in the forum that i could use a MLP4DSM transmitter ( already purchased and used one because i do not have a radio....yet) and a receiver. I do not have a motor yet , but the receiver i am planning to use is a dsm compatible from banggood, that i found in one the forums: I want to understand : I hope somebody can provide some guidance and please excuse if this is not the correct location for the questions. Thanks 1. That receiver has a brushed ESC for a brushed ( not brushless ) motor . 2. ESC stands for "Electronic Speed Control" , it uses the signal from the transmitter to control the speed of the motor ..... variably from "no throttle" to "full throttle" . You don't "need" an ESC for a brushed motor , you can simply put an on/off switch on the plane ...... off for no throttle , on for full throttle . 3. There are ESC's for brushed and brushless motors . 4. An ESC needs to be able to deliver the amp draw of the motor/prop , and be able to handle the battery voltage . If you are new to RC flying , I recommend starting with a BNF DSMX plane instead of trying to piece something together from various parts . The MLP4DSM transmitter is a heli transmitter , and the "LP" stands for "Low Power" . A low power transmitter has limited range , so you'll be limited to getting a UMX plane that needs to be kept close by . Here is one example of a BNF UMX plane that will probably work with that transmitter : |
Last edited by balsa or carbon; Sep 20, 2017 at 06:46 PM. | |
Sep 20, 2017, 03:40 PM
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Quorneng | |
Quorneng Registered User | Herreraa |
Sep 20, 2017, 03:48 PM
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balsa or carbon | |
balsa or carbon IMO ( In My Opinion ) → | If you really want to put together your own micro plane ( not recommended ) , you can get this all-in-one receiver ..... that has a receiver , brushed ESC and two servos all built in . The whole thing is about the size/weight of a matchbook . https://www.horizonhobby.com/radios/...esc-spmar6410l You would still need to get a battery and charger . |
Sep 20, 2017, 05:12 PM
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BMatthews | |
BMatthews B for Bruce | I'm going to run counter to what the others are saying about such a conversion PROVIDED you already have some background with trimming and flying smaller rubber models. The others are assuming that you are totally new to any sort of model flying. But if you are already a few models or more into free flight rubber building and flying then moving to a lightweight conversion to RC would not be at all out of the question. As mentioned this receiver is already set up for the very smallest of micro servos using the little tiny connectors. The onboard ESC is good for 2 amps. Here is AN EXAMPLE of a motor with gearing which would work with the onboard brushed motor ESC directly from the receiver you are getting. This particular motor draws 1.6A at the max voltage of 4.2 (a freshly charged single Lipo cell in other words). And if the 34gm thrust is to be believed with the right prop you could fly up to a 70 gram model with such a motor and suitable prop. But you'd likely want to stick to more like a 50'ish gram/2oz sort of limit. Nice slow flying models at that weight would be from 20 to 24 inch span. Or a lightly built model up to 30 inch span which would be a true "slow flyer". I see that the receiver also has a functional throttle channel output as well. So it would be possible to run some of the smaller brushless motors with an added brushless ESC. Note that in this case you would want to ignore or remove the battery leads that run directly to the Receiver and rely on the usual built in BEC (Battery Eliminator Circuit) in the outboard ESC. Do NOT try to run one battery at the ESC and another to the receiver. Bad things could happen and you'd let out the smoke That's enough for now. On the other hand if you are new to any sort of such building, trimming and flying then I'd pay attention to what the others are suggesting about starting with a complete and proven off the shelf solution. |
It's one or the other for the power source to the Receiver.Sep 20, 2017, 06:50 PM
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failboat | |
failboat yank and bank!! | Quote: Originally Posted by herreraa I am new in RC
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Sep 20, 2017, 09:27 PM
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scruffy1 | |
scruffy1 looking up, down under | Quote: Originally Posted by failboat
i was new in r/c too once, but i already had a decade of building free flight gliders and peanut scale it helped but if you're brand new to flying, don't make it hard on yourself by beginning with something rather delicate |
Sep 20, 2017, 10:52 PM
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herreraa | |||
herreraa Slow Flight Thread OP | Thanks all for your comments, BMatthews,
http://www.endlesslift.com/make-your...late-airplane/ PROJECT Thanks again Alex FilesView all Files in thread
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Sep 21, 2017, 12:23 AM
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scruffy1 | |
scruffy1 looking up, down under | for a plane that size, using the brushed esc that is part of the receiver is sensible this radio is probably the easiest multiprotocol one to do what you wish : i would recommend you need a smaller plug and lipo than the supplied lead will accommodate this will require detaching the lead, and soldering on an appropriate one - beware that there are more connectors than i can begin to explain here, but you might benefit from checking this : alternatively, use the dsmx receiver as i earlier suggested, which will go with the radio you mentioned : but be aware that it is dsmx only, not dsm2 protocol there's a review i wrote here : this link http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Blade-E-F...-/172381496700 note that the dsmx receiver works happily with these servos : they have 1mm pin spacing, not the more common 1.25mm spacing believe me, when you use micro stuff, the standardisation is diverse, and it pays to have a clue as to what you will require so it will plug together - because you will certainly be in for considerable frustration unless you note the differences there's also a slew of 1s chargers available, here : personally, this one looks like the best cheap optin with all the common plugs : that should keep you busy for a while you'll need to be capable of micro -size soldering too...
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Sep 21, 2017, 11:40 AM
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BMatthews | |
BMatthews B for Bruce | GIven the new information you provided above I'd suggest you look more at the idea of purpose built slow flying foam construction planes than converting existing rubber models. Balsa and carbon, a member here, has lots of options for very slow flying models made from depron or dollar store foam which would suit your plans and desires far better than trying to convert commercial rubber models that arrive ready to fly or nearly ready to fly. As you correctly learned many of the rubber models such as you're already flying and which are available as that style of construction all tend to be rather small. Even with the light Rx and appropriate servos you really want to START with a wing span more like 24" so you have enough wing area to lift everything while flying fairly slowly. It's fine to say "I'll start simply with only rudder and throttle". But then you're keenly relying on finer trimming skills. Also consider that when you turn with rudder the model will tend to dive to some extent. Steeper turns without any rudder become spiral dives. And a model flying level or climbing very shallowly even with a large open turn will either start descending or level out due to even that slight amount of turn and bank angle. All of this is another good reason to at least go with rudder and elevator along with throttle.... at least for now. On the other hand if you can use the models you're flying now as inspiration to use Dollar store foam board to build larger versions of the rubber models I think you'd be OK to give it all a whirl. Trimming those other models to fly means you've started to learn what it takes to trim a model and which angles are critical to successful flying. And what you'd end up with would be similar to the old GWS Lite Stik that was so popular some years ago and which was very easy to fly. If you're keen on all this I'd suggest that's how you should proceed over trying to convert small models that need incredibly light radio gear to fly well. For example, if you made a 3 time size Snowflake at 27 inch span it would be a perfect size for your receiver running on one 400mah Lipo cell into your receiver and running that geared brushed motor I linked to above. Instead of foam meat tray it would use the dollar store foam. I would mount the wing on a 2 inch tall pylon at the fuselage and use wing struts or heavy thread "flying wires" from the base of the fuselage out to the dihedral break in the mid section to aid with holding the wing together against any sudden pull outs. I'd run that with two small micro servos in the 1.5 to 2 gram range for rudder and elevator. The resulting model should be a good flyer which you could use to train yourself to fly if done in a suitable manner. By that I mean some test gliding on a shallow hill of taller grass to get the glide trim set and get a feel for turning gently to each side and initial coordination of the elevator with the rudder. Then to get into powered flying. Training yourself like this inevitably means repairs and even making new components. But you'd be starting with a good flying well proportioned design by copying the Snowflake in all respects other than the RC and electric motor instead of rubber. And it would be a better overall size match to that Rx you have coming at this point. After you master flying something like the RC Snowflake you could look into smaller designs built lightly. But the key is "built lightly". The gear you are obtaining is easily capable of being put into a smaller model of around 20 inch span and flying well. But you want that model at that size to be no more than 2 oz. And even at that weight it won't be a slow flyer. To fly at that size like a rubber model it needs to be more like 1 to1.25oz. And that requires specialized building skills with modern stuff or learning the "old way" of using light built up stick and tissue structures from the "old days". If you go for the enlarged Snowflake or something else suitable to your gear then all the best. |
Sep 21, 2017, 12:17 PM
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herreraa | |
herreraa Slow Flight Thread OP | BMattews, |
Sep 21, 2017, 12:43 PM
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balsa or carbon | |
balsa or carbon IMO ( In My Opinion ) → | In addition to the rubber powered airframes ( NOT designed for RC ) , TY Model makes small airframes DESIGNED for RC ..... such as this one , also from Banggood : https://www.banggood.com/TY-Model-Bl...l?rmmds=search Most of the TX/RX protocols have micro all-in-one units ( receiver , ESC and servos ) like the DSM one I linked in post #7 above . The micro all-in-one units are commonly called "bricks" . Target Hobby has a counterfeit DSM2 brick for $17 with a brushless ESC that operates on 2S : A FlySky protocol brick that is commonly used for DIY micro planes is this one : https://www.banggood.com/WLtoys-V911...l?rmmds=search , but I would just buy the entire V911 heli package so I would get the transmitter , brick , motors , batteries and battery charger : There is a thread for building micro planes using cheap heli bricks : |
